TARTU

Throughout history, Tartu has been sacked, pillaged and bombed by competing armies more often than almost any city in Europe50 times, by some counts. Therefore, it shouldnt come as a huge surprise that this city of 100,000 has again built itself back up following decades of Soviet-era decay. Estonias second most populous city used to have the reputation of lagging behind Tallinn. No more. After service upgrades and a renovation boom, Tartu is far more user friendly and fun. The lovely new Wilde pub and caf (below) is the best proof of this; a number of new hotels and guesthouses also drive the point home. An excursion to Tartu, 180 kilometers southeast of the Estonian capital, is now well worth the effort.

Because it is home to the countrys No. 1 university, Tartu has always had a certain thoughtfulness and refinement that the frenzied, business-focused capital sometimes lacks. Tartu University was founded by Swedish King Gustav Adolph in 1632 and nearly all of Estonias VIPs went to Tartu U; they all tend to go soft and mushy when they talk about the place. About 8,000 students are currently enrolled at the university, which heavily influences the life and pulse of Tartu.

To call Tartu from abroad, dial 372, city code 7 and then the six digit numberso, 372-7-xxx-xxx. Within Estonia and outside Tartu, you dial 0, the city code 7, and then the number; 0-7-xxx-xxx. In Tartu, you just dial the six digit number.

Staying the Night

Uppsala Maja (Guesthouse): Jaani 7, a few minutes walk from the main university building in the old city; (07) 441-931, fax (07) 441-935, e-mail uppsala@online.ee.

A small, terrific guesthouse in an 18th-century building recently renovated with the help of Uppsala, Tartus sister city in Sweden. Accommodations cant get much cozier than this: its like an old Swedish cottage, but with all the amenities. Some 60 dollars for a double.

Draakon: Raekoja 4, next to Tartus Town Hall; tel. (07) 308-900, fax (07) 434-540, e-mail tonyas@solo.delfi.

A stylish, extremely comfortable hotel in a renovated Classical building in the old city. It seems to be the hotel of choice for visiting ambassadors and presidents. About 80 dollars for a double.

Barclay: likooli 8, on the edge of the old city, tel. (07) 447-100, fax (07) 447-101, e-mail barclay@barclay.ee.

A quality hotel that was once a Soviet army headquarters. Famed for its Dzhokhar Dudayev room, named after the late Chechen leader who had an office here. A double is some 90 dollars.

Pallas: Riia 4, located just outside the old city and above a shopping center; (07) 301-200, (07) 301-201, e-mail pallas@kodu.ee.

A good hotel. Each room has a different mural, some painted in slightly overbearing colors. Some 80 dollars for a double.

Eating and Drinking

Wilde: Vallikraavi 4, on the edge of the old city; tel. (07) 309-762. Website: www.wilde.ee.

One of the most refreshing pubs in Estonia, with the class and sophistication to put many of its Tallinn counterparts to shame. Located in a 19th century publishing house, Wilde has become the in place for anyone living here or passing through. CITY PAPER recently spotted the prime minister here and any number of leading scholars sipping coffee or throwing back pints of Guinness. Wilde, which is named after two WildesOscar and the Estonian writer Eduard Vildefeatures a great Irish pub upstairs and a lovely cafe downstairs; next to the caf is a good bookstore, which caters to university students, but which also has some books in English. If youre coming to Tartu, Wilde is simply a must.

Legend: Ktri 6, near the main university building; tel. (07) 441-763.

A tumbledown bar/restaurant with a delightful clash of motifs, from the Harley biker theme to busts of Stalin and his words of suspect wisdom etched on the walls. A particularly good place for heavy drinking and smoking.

Tsink Plekk Pang: Ktri 6, in the old city; tel. (07) 441-789.

A popular Tartu venue, including a Chinese restaurant and a hot nightclub on the third floor. The Chinese foods good, though not top-notch.

Sights

The most notable sites in Tartu, including most of the Tartu University buildings, are in and around the old city. The universitys main building, at likooli 18, is Tartus focal point. The other main landmark is a few blocks away, the Tartu Town Hall (see top picture). Youll also want to take a stroll through the quaint hill park, just above the main university building; the red-bricked cathedral at the top of the hill, which is still partly in ruins after being bombed during World War II, is a history museum. St. Johns Church on Jaani street is the oldest church in Estonia; it was destroyed during the war, but has been largely rebuilt. The Vanemuine Theater, at Vanemuise 6, is a cultural icon in Estonia. Tartus botanical garden, at Lai 38/40, is one of Europes oldest.

Tourist Info

Tartu Tourist Info Center: Raekoja 14, along the Town Hall Square; tel. (07) 432-141, e-mail info@tartu.tourism.ee.

See the Tartu Tourist Info Center website at: www.tartu.ee.

 More about my lovely Tartu....

Copyright(c) 2003 Karine Grigorjan. All rights reserved.